Kate Chopin in Context: That includes essays via students from all over the world, Kate Chopin in Context revitalizes discussions at the famed 19th-century writer of The Awakening. Additional resources for German war literature. Skip to content Home. Home Literary Criticism Theory German war literature.
A examine paper on "How powerful did anti-war and anti-Nazism writers articulate themselves? American Novels of the Cold War and Korea, Contributions in Economics and Economic History, Axelsson presents an outline of yank conflict and armed forces novels set among and Then th preface becomes inisty about the author, Adela E.
But the writer is doclarod to have been "the little girl that she had the care of during: Onco over the preliminary riddle and the egotism the reader will find much to amuse and interest him or her. Putnam's Sons have prepared a new collection of their exquisite literary gems, bo called, Buskin's "Ideals of Truth," from his greater work on "Modern Painters," and Matthew Arnold's essay, "The Study of Poetry," both these having fine portraits of their authors: Keats' "Evo of St.
De Qnincey's essay on "Con - J' vorsation," which is as good for to - day as for the first yoars of the century, better perhaps, since the deluge of books, against which he said good conversation would "rise into a rivolsliip," haB so enormously increased: Another minute one is Clinton Ross' clever archaic literary work iu sketching vividly the last days of Wolfe, the conqueror of Montcalm, the one giving his life for Quebec and the other losing both Quebec and his life in the battle on the plains of Abraham.
Beside this vivid death picture, entitled, "On the Extreme Edge of Hazard," is another called "Tho Lie with Circumstanoe," in which Lord Fenwold is similarly sketched in epistle and colloquy; and still another draft upon old records appears in dramatic form, de picting Talleyrand in certain phases, the whole volume being entitled "Two Soldiers and a Politician.
Catalog Record: Stelligeri, and other essays concerning America | Hathi Trust Digital Library
A curious and pleasant reminder to tliose who remcmbor the days of tho Tappans. Boston, dedicated to the memory of her parents. James Sloan Gibbons and Abby Hopper Giubun3, who at least suffered spoiling of their soods for the sacred cause of abolition, men their homo was wrecked"! The story is a stirring and realistic ono of the days wheti families: Luiumis' similarly - reproduced papers ou the Spanish American Southwest, fiusly printod, bound and illustrated under the title, "Tho Land of Poco Tiompo," , giving very satisfactory idoas of tho aboriginal and Enropoaa inhabitants of tho region and' their successive works and architecture, publii and demestio; in the series of contemporary - acience Frederick Houssay's "Industries of An - ' mala," describing and illustrating thoir various in lifo at by ii I; of It to a of is Brown and Green in All Shades the Colors of the Season.
No woman need bo unattractively dressed this winter. With such marvelous bargains and such a variety of designs there is a chunco for everyone's tasto to show itself in becoming aprarel. Tho artistic dressmaker selects for her slender and sloping shouldered customer big puffed sleeves, wida berthas, canes, epuulots and collarettes. She shortens tho length of hor waist with trim girdles and covor.
For tho decoration of the stout woman she makes triz coats or basque, which disguise the lino of the hips, and she has a way of mounting tho skirt on a bias which fits the hips perfectly. The present fashions are adaptations of styles combined with those of other periods, especially that of Louis XIXL Cloth and wool gowns aro made with Robespierre revers in black moire, which is more popular even than velvet. Furs and embroideries combined play a most important part in the making of olegant costumes, such as aro meant for church weddings. Brown and green, in all their shades, aro the colors of the season.
Capuchin brown and Lincoln sreen are special favorites. A Lincoln green cloth suit, with col - ar. This is made with a waistcoat of cloth with a braided gorget in gold and greou. The skirt is docoratod with bands of embroidery hoaded with rouleaux of bouver. The hat is a green felt, with tufts of beaver on ono sido. A charming going away dress for a brido is a dovo gray camel's hair, trimmed with bronzo embroidery and wolferine fur.
Tho bodice is made with a corselet arrangement of Venetian embroidery in ono of tho fashiouablo floriated de signs,. Rough woollens and hop sackings are treated similarly, velvet or silk being generally substituted for embroideries, which are reserved for cloth. Thus a mixed hop sacking in green aud rose has the bodice made with green velvet and edges of black marten fur.
Its desirability has led to somo new kinds of band trimmings and edges. Inch wiilo bands of baby lamb fur, as glossy and black as inoire, are selected by tbe foreign modistes for black dresses iu combination, with bright colored velvets. Imagine such a dress in black velvet trimmed to the knee with shaped flounce of petunia colored velvet. Another oxtravagant featuro is seen in bolero jackets of fur finished with revers of black moire. So groat is the craze for combinations of different materials that fur and silk or fur and velvet are most oommon or even fur.
For instance, an imported all black costume has a waist of velvet with a corselet of - moire covered with rich jot beading. Broad revers of moire are set below high stock collar of moire, edged at the top with dark Russian sable. Less elaborate, but in lino with tho fashions, is a simpio, tailor made, mixed wool suit, finished at neck and wrists with one narrow band of beaver, which is going to be very prominent all winter. A - calling costume in brown, trimmed with black marten, or in green, trimmed with beaver.
As a good example of tho latter, the skirt is made with a deep flounce of green velvet, tho joining being hidden under a band of beaver. Above the flounce aro other bands of fur. The corsage has a plastron of green velvet fastened by two rows of little gold buttons, with a full col lar of velvet, edged with fur, which falls in front like a bertha.
The sleeve is made with a velvet cuff and two puffs of cloth, each finished with a f nr edged ruffle. All kinds of garments are even more profusely trimmed with fur than gowns, the same combina tions of velvet and silk being shown. Capes and collarettes are fur bordered. Fur - fringes of black ooney are headed by milliners' folds of black satin or jet gimps.
Lynx and opossum are contrasted with green cloth and velvet. A jacket in black satin shows a stole front and double capes in velvet, edged with wolferine. A coat in black velours dr. Nord is made with a full basque, trimmed with silk passementerie and black, fox. Hie stole fronts are of solid passementerie.
Black plush wrap3 are heavily trimmed with jet and dark fur. A nice cape of black plush has a round collar of black bear. Long cloaks, which are to be in vogue for oarriage wear, are prepared of thick soft wools lino. Ono of black satin, with sleeves as long as the e - net.
Never have woman's garments been more regal, from those in silk and cloth, trimmed with priceless laces and furs, to thoso in costly fur throughout. Coats of black are lined with rich furs, porh. A most comfortable looking long garment is made trom melton, with large ool - lar, revers and cuffs of raccoon fur. It is braided down each seam, the back of bodice being also ornamented with braid.
A single costume may combine several differ ent furs, a bear boa being worn with a double seal coat, while the seal hat is trimmed with sable, it will be a season of beautiful furs, and every smartly dressed woman will make an effort to indulge her fancy for somo striking combine. The height of luxury is displayed in these full and double garments, in which no account seems to bo taken of tho amount used. Tersian lamb capes with collarette and collar of same are made distingue by an edge of seaL An opera cloak of poppy red velvet, linod with ormine, has the front and capes edged with skunk.
Was there over such a season of magnificent garments? These few examples, taken at random, give only the vaguest idea of the splendid variety. Even foot muffs correspond, one of white Polar bear beinc edged with black and lined with white. Seal, mink, Russian sable, astrakhan, Persian lamb, marten, fox and bear are popular, as well as beaver, wolferine and other loss costly varieties. As for designs, many different shapes are fashionablo, as the reefer, loose front coat, empire ooat, Louis XVI cape, Columbus cape, umbrella cape, sack and newmarket.
Catalog Record: Stelligeri, and other essays concerning America | Hathi Trust Digital Library
An ermine petticoat does not seem very feasible, but this is just what a Parisian has dared while waiting for tho weather that demand - fur for comfort as nu outside garment. A long black velvet skirt opens on one side of front and turns - back, faced with white satin coverod with black guipuro, over a simulated petticoat of ermine.
Eton jackets of Persian lamb, with RobesDierrs revers' of seal, are the extreme of elegance for young women. In the millinery world fur is quite as much in demand ao for suits and dresses, only it must be admitted that hero the limits of good tasto aro often overreached. Some of the fur toques are ludicrous in the extreme, and Rome of the ornaments are absurd. A large folt flat with a fur scarf twisted round it in a trifla bettor than nn ugly roll of fur finished with claws.
A coloredfolt with a boavor edge is not bad, with somo beaver combined with the velvet in the trimming, but wheu sablo heads and tails are placed round a brim at all angles, the effect ia ridiculous onough and one wonders how any aenjible creature could have been persuaded into buying th3 monstrosity. Fur roses are not especially beautiful and fur fringes aro hideous, but a narrow band of beaver edging a baby's white silk bonnet is very dainty and gonerally becoming.
Tho most becoming of all furs next to the complexion is probably Russian sablo or seal. A woman with neck muSled m either of tliose sich. No wonder women are willing to forogo other ploasnrej for the sake of possessing a fur garment. Dark mink tails in vosrne last yoar are more used than over, whilo smooth black Astrakhan, called uioiro Astrakhan, is quito fashionable for trimmings. A variety of tho latter hav. This is pretty with tobacco brown cloth, A neat model noticed recently had a single breasted waut, with threo full ciroular skirts added at the waist line, the upper and lower boms of tho cloth with the middle u: A rest with reveres mid fiirintr collar is of tlie - Mao'r fnf.
The chances for earning a livelihood by manual dexterity even a few yoars ago wore scarco for women, but there lias been a groat and rapid change in this direction of late and anyoue who saw tho fair oxhibit made by the New York school of applied design for women must be interested to know something of its methods and teachers. The school is situated at the corner of Twenty - third street and Seventh avenuo and is tho first and only one intended exclusively for women.
Thorough instruction is given in wall paper and carpet designing. The architecture section is unexcelled by any in the world, the instructors bting architects and head designers from the leading establishments in the city. There are threo terms a year, beside the summer term. The school was organized a yoar ago for the special purpose of giving girls and women instruction which may help' them to earn a living by manual employments.
The building used is so crowded, that to facilitate the work of instruction the partition on the third floor was removed this summer, throwinj the wall paper and silk rooms into one largo department. Thore are special courses for advanced students iu etching and lithography, as well as in the designing of furniture and metal work. As soon as circumstances will allow the board of directors hopes to include such branches as stained gfass, fresco painting and interior decoration.
A great help to poor girls is the care taken to bring the best designs to the notice of manufacturing establishments, the entire amount of soles going to the students. Numerous prizes and rewards are offered for proficiency in different branches by friends in - tested in the success of the school.
Dnnlap Hopkins, one of tho directors, pays tho tuition of the student showing the best set - of drawings in the elementary department. Never were snch advantages offered to girls before, many of whom in the past have been forced into unpleasant employmnts simplv because there seemed no way of acquiring instruction in these lines. Girls, wishimj to earn money, have turned to teaching as the ono great field, when they were much better fittod by natural tastes and dexterity of hand to mnke valuable ornamental designs, to work oil metal, to hammer brass, to carve furniture or to draught plans.
All sorts of fresh questions arise every autumn concerning the latest social etiquette, the direct result of so many new ways of entertaining. Both in Now York and Brooklyn there seems to be a growing inclination to give swell entertainments in hired rooms fitted up for the purpose rather than in the home3 of those giving them.
Ihis is, or course, a great advantage to women living in small houses or crowded apartments. Though re - aeptions, dinners and musicales may thus he given, an ua written law demands that breakfasts and luncheons b3 given at one's own home. Elaborate courses aro more and more abandoned at dinners for sake of the entertainment which is pretty sure to follow.
Here it is considered proper to accept a dinner invitation, though ono realizes he must run as soon as he has finished the last course.
In Paris this would be considered a great insult, as guests are expected to spend the evening, the coffee and liquors being served iu the drawing room with tea at 10 o'clock. Simple luncheon courses are deemed preferable m tho best circles to afford thoso attendinz plenty of time to meet other engagements for the afternoon. The first course is generally bouillon, followed by oysters in somo shape. The third course is the hearty one, either chops served with Saratoga potatoes and French peas, or broiled ohicken and Parisian potatoes. Tho fourth al ways should be a salad, followed by the dessert of cream, cakes, coffee and often fruit.
For any afternoon affair, tiny sandwiches, fanes - cakes. Bread and butter plates are used ai both din ners and inncbeons, the butter being in the shape or a oau in prelerenco to any other. Old fash - luacu azui utmurs aru m jjign lavor Jllst HOW, a tiny gold spoon with fleur de lis handle resting in each. Finger bowls are not considered neo - essory unless frnii has been served.
The acces sories of tho a o ciOck tea table grow more ox - pensive, chasto ware being set in pierced silver. Pure white cup3 are shown slipped into silver bands and resting on silver saucers with em bossed borders. Coalnort teapots in delicate yellow stand m a casing of pierced silver, the silver lid boini: Tea caddies are square and silver mounted.
The nowest teacup are round and shallow. Helen Maigille of Washington avenue is undoubtedly one of the most thoroughly in - structen vocalists in tnis city. While traveling in iiiurope with a relative when quite young she sang before the great Wartel.
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Murio Celli and Ferranti. French and Italian composers. Again she went abroad. Clarice Ziska and other great artists. Maigillo began her professional career in Brooklyn in 1SSS, having a studio both at lier Homo in this city and on Fifth avenuo. It was m tnis period - that she was conneetod with the t t. During her lass stay abroad. JbUU - s, sue sang on ono occasion for Massenet who exprossod his surpriso that she preferred ttie avocation of teaching to siiiginir in oners.
Sho also spent somo time iu Roma at the country seat oi ner irioua. At Paris a supei - D luncheon party was given in her honor by Mmo. Jules Lofevro, a friend of the Lmprcss Euenio, whose husband was prefect under the empire, aud who has sinco boen a guest several times at Chiselnui - st. The first time Mr. Alexander Lambert played m this city Sirs.. Maigille arranged his recital at Historical hall.
Sho has also superintended a number of the concerts held at the Young lien's Christian association hall. Since her dobut in 18S7 she has sung with many well known artists, the most famous of whom, probably, was the much admired Herr Alvary, who sang m Wagnoriau rolos at tho Met ropolitan Opera house. In connection with Mr.
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Ethelbert Nevin, tho composer, sho gave at one time a series of recitals atPittsburg. Maigille is popular in both Now lork and Brooklyn. Sho is a member of Sorosis as well as the Brooklyn Woman's club. Sho is de scended from an old New England family, her grandfather, Mr. Samuel Cirt - jr, having been taken captive at the burning of Deorfiald by tho French aud Canadian Indians. It is expected that her innsicale November 1, at the Pouch gallery, will be quite an event socially, many' in - vitations having beon given out.
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